Rihaakuru explained: the Maldivian tuna paste

Rihaakuru starts as the cooking liquid left over when fresh tuna is boiled. That liquid is garudhiya, the clear fish broth many families eat for lunch. Keep it on a low heat, stir it for long enough, and it slowly turns from a thin soup into a glossy paste that coats a spoon.

It is not fermented and it is not a fish sauce in the South-East Asian sense. Nothing is left to age. It is simply concentrated by heat, which is why it keeps so well in a warm climate.

A doctoral study on rihaakuru at Massey University in New Zealand (Aishath Naila, 2011) is one of the few scientific looks at the product. It describes rihaakuru as a traditional Maldivian side dish, eaten daily and mainly with rice, and as unique to the Maldives. The study notes that it was long made in individual households, with commercial production becoming more common.

What it tastes like

Expect something closer to a meat extract than a fish paste. It is salty, rich and a little smoky or caramelised from the long cooking. A little goes a long way. Most people use a teaspoon or two at a time, not a ladle.

Why it matters

Tuna has been at the centre of Maldivian life for centuries, and very little of the fish is wasted. Rihaakuru is part of that thrift. The same pot of fish gives you a meal of broth, cooked tuna that can be smoked and dried into Maldive fish, and finally a paste that lasts for months on a shelf. To understand the fishing behind it, read our guide to pole-and-line tuna fishing in the Maldives.

Rihaakuru is a condiment, not a dish on its own. You add it to food the way you might add a spoon of chutney or a smear of yeast extract.

• With rice and garudhiya. The classic way: a plate of plain rice, a bowl of tuna broth, lime, small fresh chillies, chopped onion and a little rihaakuru mixed in to taste.
• With rice alone. On a simple day, rice with a spoon of rihaakuru, a squeeze of lime and some chilli is a complete meal for many people.
• As a seasoning. Home cooks stir it into curries and sauces for depth, much as you would use a stock cube.

If you are staying on a local island, ask your host whether you can try it with a home-style lunch of rice and broth. For a wider look at what to order, see Maldivian food: dishes to try, and for what you can eat on our island, food in Dhiffushi.

There is no single official recipe, and every family has its own habits. The general method below follows the summary in the Massey University study, which drew on recipes from different parts of the Maldives and on talks with home and commercial makers.

1. Boil the tuna. Whole gutted tuna, sometimes without the head, or large chunks go into a big open pan with water and a little salt (about 1%). The fish cook for around 45 minutes.

2. Skim the scum. A grey foam, called *filleyo* in Dhivehi, keeps rising to the surface. Cooks scoop it off throughout.

3. Lift out the fish. The cooked tuna comes out and is usually processed into dried Maldive fish. Several batches of fish may be cooked one after another in the same liquid, making it stronger each time.

4. Strain the broth. The liquid is filtered through cloth to remove scales, bones and small bits.

5. Reduce slowly. The broth goes back on a low heat and is stirred, often with a wooden paddle, until most of the water evaporates. The study puts this at roughly 4 to 8 hours depending on the volume. Makers judge it by how the paste drips from a spoon.

6. Cool and bottle. Once it reaches room temperature it is spooned into clean glass or plastic jars with lids.

Which fish are used

The study lists skipjack, yellowfin, bigeye, frigate tuna and little tunny, alone or mixed.

Village-scale production

Rihaakuru is still often made outdoors on island plots over wood fires, in very large pans. National news outlet The Edition has reported on small rihaakuru businesses on Nilandhoo in Faafu Atoll and Nolhivaranfaru in Haa Dhaalu. On Nilandhoo, families moved from cooking at home to small leased plots with separate areas for drying fish and cooking, selling to their own island, to visitors from other islands and to Malé. If you are travelling further afield, our Faafu Atoll guide covers that part of the country.

The Massey study analysed samples and found a dense, high-protein food:

Low water activity is the main reason it keeps without a fridge. The paste also contained omega-3 fatty acids at levels the researchers compared with canned tuna. These are figures from a small number of samples in one study, so treat them as a guide, not a label.

A note on food safety

The same research looked at histamine, a compound that can build up when fish is not kept cold before cooking. Some samples tested had high levels, which can cause symptoms such as a rash, flushing or nausea in sensitive people. The researchers also found that histamine fell during long storage rather than rising. In practice:

• Buy sealed jars from shops, with a label where possible.
• Use a clean, dry spoon each time.
• If you have a fish allergy or are sensitive to histamine, skip it.
• If you feel unwell after eating fish, seek medical advice.

Rihaakuru is sold in jars in ordinary grocery shops across the country, both factory-made and homemade. Island shops and local markets are the places to look. In Malé, try the shops around the local market; see our Malé fish market and local market guide. On Dhiffushi, ask at the local shops and fish market.

Tips when buying:

• Check the seal and date. The Massey study notes that commercial makers usually label a shelf life of about six months, and home producers often say longer.
• Look at the colour. It ranges from light to dark brown. Darker usually means a longer cook and a stronger flavour.
• Ask for a small jar first. It is strong, and a little lasts a long time.

It also makes a thoughtful food gift, with fewer ethical questions than many souvenirs. For other ideas, see Maldives souvenirs and shopping.

Taking it home

Whether you can bring rihaakuru into your home country depends on that country’s food import rules, not the Maldives. Many countries restrict or require you to declare fish and animal products, and some have strict biosecurity checks. Before you pack it:

• Check your home country’s customs or biosecurity website for fish products.
• Declare it on arrival if asked. Undeclared food can mean a fine.
• Pack it in your checked luggage. A paste counts as a liquid or gel at airport security.
• Wrap the jar well and seal it in a plastic bag. A leak in a suitcase is not something you forget.

Rihaakuru is pure fish, so it is not suitable for vegetarians or vegans. It is often present in home cooking without being obvious, so if you avoid fish, say so clearly when ordering local food. Our guide to vegetarian and vegan food in the Maldives explains how to ask.