Dolphin watching in the Maldives: a local island guide

The Maldives sits in the open Indian Ocean, surrounded by deep water, so it is a good place for whales and dolphins (cetaceans). A scientific review by Charles Anderson, Shiham Adam and colleagues, published in the International Whaling Commission’s *Journal of Cetacean Research and Management* (2012), lists 23 cetacean species recorded in Maldivian waters. All cetaceans are protected by law in the country.

Spinner dolphins: the ones you will most likely see

The spinner dolphin (*Stenella longirostris*) is the species seen most often in Maldivian surveys. It is slim, grey and fairly small, and it lives in groups that can run from a handful to well over a hundred animals. Its name comes from its party trick: it leaps clear of the water and twists around its own length several times before splashing down.

Spinners have a clear daily routine. They feed offshore at night and come into the atolls during the day to rest, often using the same reef channels again and again. That routine is exactly why evening trips work: boats head for the channels in late afternoon, when the dolphins are waking up and getting ready to head out to sea.

Other species you might see

• Pantropical spotted dolphins: also among the most frequently observed species, but more often in deeper, offshore water.
• Common bottlenose dolphins: seen at times, though less often than spinners.
• Striped, rough-toothed, Risso’s and Fraser’s dolphins: recorded mostly on longer trips out to the open ocean.
• Whales: on specialist offshore trips, short-finned pilot whales, melon-headed whales, false killer whales and sperm whales are all recorded. Blue whales pass through seasonally (recorded from about November to April, with peaks in December–January and April), and humpback whales are seen more from June to October, according to the Important Marine Mammal Area (IMMA) factsheet for the Maldives.

On most local islands, dolphin watching means a short boat trip in the late afternoon. Here is what usually happens.

• Timing: boats leave around an hour or two before sunset and return at or just after dark. Trips usually take one and a half to three hours.
• The boat: often a traditional wooden dhoni, sometimes a speedboat.
• The route: the crew heads for channels and reef edges where dolphins are often found.
• What happens when you find them: the boat slows down and keeps a steady course. Spinners often come to the boat on their own, ride the bow wave and leap close by.
• The sunset: even on a quiet evening without dolphins, you are on the water at the best light of the day.
• Booking: through your guesthouse or a local tour desk, usually the same day or the day before.

A local island example: Dhiffushi

On Dhiffushi, on the eastern rim of North Malé (Kaafu) Atoll, the sunset dolphin cruise is one of the island’s most popular evening trips. Spinner dolphins are often seen in the channels nearby. It suits first evenings, families and anyone who does not dive. For how it fits with sandbank picnics, turtle snorkels and island hopping, see the Dhiffushi excursions guide.

Other local islands across the atolls run similar trips, so you can almost always find one wherever you stay. The local islands guide explains how guesthouse islands work in general.

Spinner dolphins live in the Maldives all year, so there is no closed season. What changes is the sea.

• Calmer months: the northeast monsoon (dry season), roughly January to March, usually brings flatter seas and clearer evenings. That makes trips more comfortable and dolphins easier to spot.
• Wetter months: during the southwest monsoon (mid-May to November), seas can be choppier and trips are sometimes cancelled or moved. Dolphins are still around.
• Where they are: researchers note that spinners seem most common on the “downstream” side of the atolls, and their distribution shifts with the monsoon currents. Local crews follow these changes season by season.

For weather month by month, see the best time to visit the Maldives.

Dolphins come into the atolls to rest. A trip that respects that rest is better for the animals and, in practice, gives you better encounters, because relaxed dolphins stay longer and come closer by choice.

Good boat behaviour

• No chasing: boats should never chase a pod or try to herd it.
• No driving through the group: the boat should not cut across the dolphins’ path or split a pod, especially one with calves.
• Slow and steady: near dolphins, the boat should slow down, keep a steady course and avoid sudden turns or revving.
• Let them choose: if the dolphins come to the bow, enjoy it. If they move away, let them go.

Why you should not swim with resting spinners

It is tempting to jump in, but it is best not to. Spinner dolphins rest in shallow, sheltered water during the day, and that rest matters for their health. Research on spinner dolphins in Hawaii, where swimming with them has been studied for years, found that boats and swimmers often disturb their rest. United States authorities now require people to keep 50 yards (about 46 metres) away from Hawaiian spinner dolphins. The Maldives has a different setting, but the biology of the species is the same.

Most sunset trips from local islands are watch-only, and that is the right way to do it.

On board

• Never feed dolphins or throw anything into the water, including food scraps.
• Never try to touch them, even if they come very close to the boat.
• Keep noise down: no shouting or banging on the hull to “call” them.
• Flash off for photos. Spinners move fast, so try burst mode or video.
• Take all rubbish home with you, especially plastic.

For the wider picture on protecting reefs and wildlife, see responsible travel in the Maldives.

A dolphin trip is rarely just about dolphins. Keep an eye out for:

• Flying fish: they burst out of the water ahead of the boat and glide surprisingly long distances just above the surface.
• Sea turtles: green and hawksbill turtles are common around Maldivian reefs, and you may see one come up to breathe. Turtles are protected in the Maldives.
• Reef sharks and rays: in shallow, clear water near the reef edge you might spot a blacktip reef shark or a ray. Our sharks guide explains which species live here.
• Bioluminescence: on some dark nights, the wake glows blue on the way back. See bioluminescence in the Maldives.

For mantas, whale sharks and turtles in more depth, see our Maldives marine life guide.

• Bring a light layer: the ride home after sunset can be breezy, even in the tropics.
• Protect your camera: a dry bag or waterproof pouch helps, as spray is common.
• Seasickness: channels can be choppy. If you are prone to it, take tablets before you board and sit near the middle of the boat.
• Dress: on a local island, cover shoulders and knees in the village on the way to the jetty. On the boat, normal holiday clothes are fine. See what to wear in the Maldives.
• Weather: if the sea is too rough, trips are usually moved or refunded.