The dhoni: the traditional Maldivian boat

A dhoni (sometimes spelt “dhoani”) is a plank-built, multi-purpose boat. You will see versions of it along the coasts of south India and Sri Lanka too. The word is shared across the region: related words for a boat turn up in Tamil, Malayalam and other South Indian languages. A Tamil inscription from the 13th century already mentions the *toni*.

In the Maldives, a nation of around 1,200 islands, the dhoni was for centuries the only way to fish, trade, visit family or reach the next island.

What makes a dhoni easy to recognise:

• A high, upswept prow. The bow rises in a long curve, often with a separate carved stem piece. Crews traditionally stand at the prow to watch for reefs.
• A low, open hull. The sides sit close to the water. That makes it easy to haul in fish, step down into the sea or climb back aboard from a ladder.
• A working deck at the stern, where fishermen fish and snorkellers kit up.
• A canopy. Most passenger dhonis now have a roof for shade.

The sailing era

For centuries Maldivian boats moved by sail and oar. Larger sailing ships carried dried fish, coir rope and cowrie shells to Sri Lanka and India, and brought back rice, cloth and other goods. Sri Lanka was the most regular destination.

For more on this trade and the islands’ long relationship with the sea, see our history of the Maldives.

Mechanisation from 1974

The big change came in the 1970s. The government began fitting engines to the pole-and-line tuna fleet in 1974, according to a 1995 Indian Ocean Tuna Commission (IOTC) paper. Progress was fast. By early 1980 almost all of the active pole-and-line fleet was motorised. A Library of Congress country study notes that a World Bank (International Development Association) loan helped mechanise most remaining boats during the 1980s.

Engines let boats go further and come home the same day, whatever the wind. Hulls were redesigned for diesel and later grew larger. FAO fleet figures from the mid-1990s still list a handful of sailing fishing boats alongside more than 1,400 motorised ones. Today a working dhoni under sail is a rare sight.

Coconut timber and imported wood

The coconut palm is central to Maldivian life. It even sits on the national emblem, where its many uses, including boat building, are part of what it stands for. Traditional hulls were made from coconut timber, which is strong and resists rot in salt water. Today builders increasingly use imported hardwood from Southeast Asia as well, especially for the keel.

Built by eye

Dhonis were traditionally built without drawn plans. A master carpenter (called a *maavadi*) took the measurements and directed the work, and the shape of the hull emerged as the planks went on. Skills passed from master to apprentice, often within families. Building a timber dhoni by hand takes weeks of skilled work.

Fibreglass dhonis

Many new boats are now built in fibreglass, often keeping the dhoni shape. They need less upkeep and no scarce timber. Larger modern fishing vessels are designed for diesel power and carry cold storage, so they can stay out longer. Wooden dhonis are still built and repaired, though.

Where they are built

Boat building happens across the country, but the island of Alifushi in Raa Atoll is widely known as the main centre of dhoni building. Its yards build wooden dhonis, fishing vessels and fibreglass boats.

Maldivians have names for many kinds of boat. Here are the ones you are most likely to hear about.

You will also hear “dhoni” used loosely for almost any traditional-style passenger boat, including diving and excursion boats.

Fishing

Tuna fishing by pole and line is still one of the country’s most important jobs, and the masdhoni remains at its heart. Crews go out early to catch live bait on the reef, then head for open water to find a school of skipjack or yellowfin. Back in harbour, you can often watch the catch come ashore in the afternoon. Our fishing in the Maldives guide explains pole-and-line fishing and how visitors can try line fishing at night.

Getting between islands

On local islands the harbour is the front door, and boats come and go all day. The public ferries run by MTCC are slower but much cheaper than a speedboat; see our page on MTCC public ferry route 308 for one example. Our getting around the Maldives guide compares ferries, speedboats, domestic flights and seaplanes.

Excursions, diving and snorkelling

For many visitors, the dhoni is the boat that takes them to the reef. Its low sides make it easy to slide into the water and climb back out. Typical trips from a local island include:

• Snorkelling trips to nearby reefs, channels and turtle spots
• Sandbank and picnic trips, see our sandbanks and picnic islands guide
• Sunset and dolphin cruises
• Island hopping to neighbouring local islands, see island hopping in the Maldives
• Night fishing with a handline

In Dhiffushi, boats come and go from the harbour and jetty, and a gentle evening on the water is one of the simplest pleasures here. Our sunset dolphin cruise page shows what a short evening trip from the island looks like.

A few habits make a dhoni trip safer and more comfortable.

• Ask for a life jacket and check where they are stored before you set off. Children should wear one.
• Board barefoot or in grippy sandals. Decks get wet and slippery. Watch the step between jetty and boat, especially at low tide.
• Sit low and towards the middle if the sea is choppy. The bow moves the most.
• Keep your bags in a dry bag. Spray is part of the ride.
• Protect yourself from the sun. Use the shade of the canopy, wear a hat and drink water.
• Listen to the captain. Crews know the reefs and currents. If they say the sea is too rough, trust them.
• Take everything back with you. Rubbish blows overboard easily, and plastic ends up on the reef.

If you get seasick, take a remedy before boarding and watch the horizon. For wider safety advice see is the Maldives safe?. If you are wondering whether to thank the crew, our tipping in the Maldives guide covers boat crews.

The dhoni shaped how Maldivians live. Island communities grew around their harbours, and fishing families still plan their year around the monsoons and the tuna. Once you start looking, you will see dhonis painted on walls and carved as models. The dhoni is not an official national symbol (the official ones include the flag, the emblem, the national flower and the national tree), but it is hard to imagine the country without it. A small hand-carved model makes a meaningful souvenir; our souvenirs and shopping guide has tips on buying locally made pieces.